Honolua - December 1969

Surfer Magazine had a feature on Honolua in 1968 that forever changed my life.  For the past 48 years, starting in December 1969, I have been returning to Maui to surf Honolua.  Having started out my surfing life at Gilgo Beach on Long Island, New York in 1965, Honolua was as perfect a wave as I could ever have imagined.  Unless it has rained in the past 48 hours, the water at Honolua is crystal clear, and  the wind is always offshore, unless a Kona storm is moving through. While there are 5 distinct breaks at Honolua - Subs, Coconuts, the Point, the Cave and Keiki Bowl, I always find myself at the Cave.  Whether 2 feet or 15 feet the machine like quality and consistency of the Cave coupled with speed and an insane inside section makes it as good as it gets.  The only changes of note at Honolua since 1969 are the addition of crushed aggregate on the entrance road and the easing of the curve at the overlook across from the break.  

Back in 1987, as usual on every Thanksgiving Day, a perfect swell hit Honolua.  With a then state of the art VCR camera and recorder I videoed some of the best rides I have ever seen at the bay.  I have listed a link to that video which is on YouTube.  While the video quality is caveman like compared to todays video I believe it will impart the essence of Honolua to all those surfers that watch it.  By the way that is Mark Anderson getting that amazing takeoff barrel.